Bonjourno from Italy. So, I am changing my name. From the moment we landed in Verona, everyone started referring me as Ciao Bella (Hello Beautiful)! I think I like that better than Maggie May…Bella. That’s me!
So, Dad and I drove from Mougins to Verona without any major incident…unusual for Dad who tends to get a bit flustered at new situations. We stopped briefly in Sanremo on the coast for a bit of breakfast and a walk around downtown. Italian Riviera. Just beautiful. The hustle and bustle of a Sunday morning. Elderly Italian men, sitting…drinking Cappuccino and eating croissants while playing chess. Much like Central Park in New York…except they were yelling at each other in Italian instead of New Yorkese. We sat in a little plaza and watched the people…so vibrant compared to the French. Animated. Of course they stopped and said hello to me…Ciao Bella! Sanremo is gorgeous…nestled against the Mediterranean Sea. Rocky backdrops. I see why Dad and so many others love the French/Italian Riviera. We walked amongst the shops as they opened…and all of the shop owners smiled at me. After a bit, we walked back to the car and Dad drove to the designer outlet mall. We didn’t stay long…looked like an American outdoor mall with high end designers…Gucci, Versace, Armani just to name a few. We window shopped…thank God Dad didn’t buy anything…I’m afraid that, at those prices, he would not have money for gas and DOG FOOD/DOG TREATS. Where is the priority?
We got back in our rental car for the drive to Verona…home of one of Dad’s friends Arturo Ottaviano who owns Osteria 177. Arturo is from Verona and his sister still lives there. We hope to connect with her. The drive along the coast was spectacular. Cliffs, water and surf. It was early Sunday morning so we encountered very little traffic. Once we passed Genova…where Columbus started his journey to “Discover” America, we turned inland. After passing through the mountains (we must have driven through 50 tunnels) we found the flatlands. Much like the American Midwest. Miles and miles of fields…many growing grapes. The highway was nice and driving was easy…we maintained speed of about 120KM/Hour (75mph) across the land. One of the big differences was the age of the buildings we passed…beautiful old farmhouses and small communities which had been there for centuries. Everything is old…everything is beautiful in. It’s own way. We stopped at a rest area. We stopped at a rest area for me to run around a little bit. Dad got gas…they had an attendant to dispense the gas…middle aged Italian man who spoke no English but smiled and petted me. He asked Dad if I was a biter…HA!
We arrived in Verona in mid-afternoon. Lots of traffic. The road was a toll road…it cost Dad 35euro to drive to Verona…but that ok…the road was pleasant. Lots of traffic on the way to our VRBO…a small, austere apartment across the river from the Verona plaza in a very old neighborhood. Everything was tight…people don’t drive big cars (for the most part). We BARELY made it through the archway leading to the apartment and parking. Dad had to go forward/back up for 5 minutes before we could pass through…after pulling in the side mirrors…really tight squeeze…but we made it.
The VRBO was scorching hot. Dad tried to turn off the heat but couldn’t figure it out…ah well. Dad changed cloths and we were off to the plaza. So much traffic…cars and walkers. We strolled across the bridge over the river. Felt much like Paris and crossing the Seine. The plaza was teeming with people. Lots of families. Well…as it turns out…Sunday, the 8th of December is a holiday..at least in Verona. In the middle of the plaza was a huge Christmas market. Sweets, wine, cheese, toys, clothing…you name it. I think the entire population of. Verona was in that square. It’s interesting. The buildings were ancient old…but on the bottom floor of each one was a store or restaurant. ALL of the Italian designers were represented. We strolled around looking for a restaurant…needless to say, the restaurants were packed. Dad found a Hugo Boss store and bought a belt, a scarf and a cotton polo sweater…in black of course. We finally found a pizzeria that had seating. They brought me water and complimented me…I have been on my very best behavior! Dad had burrata and mozzarella…and tortellini. Much like all of the food we ate in Verona, Dad had better Italian food in Annapolis…Osteria177, LaPosta and Capriccio’s. That’s ok…the wine was excellent and cheap (according to Dad) and my water tasted…well…like water. We walked back into the Plaza and just strolled around, enjoying the people and the festivities. We finally strolled home to our apartment. The TV was old…the size of a small computer monitor…but that was OK. The apartment was still hot so Dad opened the window and we went to sleep. The sun doesn’t come up until 730 and goes down at 430 this time of year…so you get used to navigating in the dark.
One persistent problem for Dad in Europe. COFFEE. The shops don’t open until 8 or 9. Dad bought a coffee maker for our room in Mougins…he is such an early riser and loves his coffee in the mornings. Dad woke at 6. He read for a little bit…then we went out on a coffee quest. Success!!! We found a little coffee shop about a 5 minute walk from the apartment. The lady was very nice…it was full of workers stopping for their morning jolt. It’s interesting. Many will order coffee and a pastry and stand at the register to eat/drink before paying and leaving. Dad had a cappuccino and an almond croissant…actually a croissant filled with Nutella. The do love their Nutella in Italy. Dad took an americano to go and we strolled back to the apartment…passing children walking to school and old men setting up their magazine stands for the day. We had to walk through a small plaza/park with grass so I stopped and did my business…both coming and going. Back at the apartment we notice a small yard/garden area so I romped around…Dad through a stick to me…and I played keep away. So much fun. I do love traveling with Dad..just the two of us. He takes me everywhere…and I love it. So happy to. Be here. We had lunch at a restaurant recommended by the apartment owner. She is very sweet. Dad couldn’t get the hot water to work for his shower…so the lady came over to check. Dad had (Inadvertently) turned off the hot water when he was trying to turn off the heat…who knew. The proprietor blamed it on the last guest…very nice of her.
Anyway lunch was interesting. We were joined in our little room by a group of 10 Korean girls and their sponsors. The waiter thought they were Japanese…and the adult woman quickly corrected him. Dad has been to Korea so he engaged the sponsors. They were so nice. He told them how to read the menu and let them see what he was eating…pasta Arrabitta and a beef stew over polenta. The menu was iffy…they offered lots of donkey (yes Donkey) and horse meat entrees. The Korean girls were in town for a ballet competition. Dad took a group photo…then they asked us to join them for another photo. Dad also spoke with another Italian couple…they were impressed that Dad was easily able to engage with the Korean group. The Italian couple lived outside of town. They told Dad that he certainly knew how to pick the best restaurants…after lunch we walked back to the flat. When we first arrived, Dad thought the neighborhood was a little rough. In the daylight, it was anything but rough. Families, children, dogs. Clearly a working class neighborhood.
In the late afternoon, Dad and I walked back to the plaza area, away from the markets, to see the arena. It was. HUGE…and old. I guess I was a bit surprised at the downtown plaza area. So many beautiful, old, historic buildings…but the first floors looked like an outdoor designer shopping mall. And the streets were paved with soapstone. Very hard surfaces…a little hard on my feet and Dad really struggled with his knees. Dad had eaten a very large lunch so he just had a glass of wine…then bought some wine and cheese and returned to the room to read and pack for our journey to Venice the next day. We left the car in a small garage at the apartment we rented. Dad was able to leave some of his things in the trunk of the car and pack everything for Venice in his backpack.
We woke early on Tuesday. Dad showered and finished packing. Then we headed down to our little bistro for a Cappuccino and croissant. We stopped by the park so I could relieve myself…then back home to close out our Verona chapter. Arturo’s sister asked if we were free for lunch but we had a train ticket for Venice...so hopefully we can catch up with her another time. The walk to the train station was about 45 minutes…and now Dad really understands why so many people advised to pack lightly. He struggled but plodded on…and we made it with time to spare. Dad checked with the help desk…unlike Paris Nord, the Verona had a Customer Service desk. YEA! Dad spoke with the lady behind the desk to see if I needed a train ticket. I did. Unfortunately Dad booked a business class ticket and I was not allowed in business class…so we upgraded to first class. Both of our tickets were 45Euros which translates to about $50 for the 1 and a half hour journey. The lady who owned the apartment advised us not to drive to Venice. Expensive to park, lots of traffic and expensive tolls. And she was right. The train went directly across the water to the small Venice train station. And I love riding on trains…
So the adventure continues…Venice!!!
Great pictures--love maggie and her suitcase waiting for train,and Korean girls